Surfing legend Garrett McNamara broke many bones while riding some of the biggest waves in the world.
“I broke my foot several times, I broke my rib several times,” he notes. “I broke my back, I broke my shoulder.”
These injuries did not prevent him from returning to the ocean and seeking to do what seemed impossible, or at least not recommended: surfing the 100-foot waves.
His quest to accomplish this feat is revealed in the six-part HBO Sports documentary 100 feet waveComing this spring to HBO and the HBO Max streaming platform. Chris Smith (fireAnd the Jim and Andy: The Great Beyond) Directed at “trying to tell the story from land and sea.”
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Smith and executive producer Joe Lewis and their team have filmed on four continents, with much of the surfing action filmed in Nazaré, Portugal, an unusually picturesque spot with waves approaching 10 stories high.
“There have been surf projects that are very good at capturing the beauty of waves, and I was very interested in the human side of them, in Story On Earth,” Smith said Wednesday at the HBO and HBO Max TCA documentary. “In terms of water [footage]We just tried to recruit the best people who were on top of their surfing game. “
He added, “Until now, the only way people saw big waves was either from the ground, or through a drone … or maybe from a helicopter. Seeing a new wave from there.” [in the water] It’s just a completely different experience. … everyone is in the water – the camera operators, everyone there is risking their lives. “
This includes of course McNamara himself, who started surfing at the age of 11 in his native Hawaii. He says since childhood that he has felt more alive in the ocean than anywhere else.
“It’s just where I belong. When it’s really big and gigantic, I feel more comfortable having a Zoom meeting,” McNamara admitted. “The quest was just to find a 100-foot wave.”
McNamara, who has set the Guinness World Records for the biggest ski wave, said it’s from a rush to successfully ride a huge wall of water, but even more exhilarating when a wave of vengeance strikes you.
He said, “This is huge, like an avalanche lands on you and it feels like a ton of bricks.” “You’re basically trying to rip your limbs and trying to squash the oxygen out of you, and you have to do your best to stay calm and move on. It’s like a washing machine in a cycle that spins with a King Kong shaking. … you’re 100 percent out of control.”
McNamara’s wife, Nicole McNamara, has also appeared on the HBO Sports series. So does brother Nicole CJ, fellow surfer.
From a higher cliff viewpoint, “Nicole is actually looking for waves and sending them out into the waves,” Lewis explained. “So it’s the complete opposite of just hoping for a good comeback.”
Nicole admits, “It’s a huge responsibility. The responsibility is on my shoulders – if I don’t send them on the biggest round and it’s the next biggest, it’s entirely my fault.”
Nicole and Garrett have two children, including a daughter whose middle name, Nazari, is taken from the thunderous Portuguese surfing spot in 100 feet wave. Their son, Barrell, is named after the perfect surfing wave, the one that curls into a perfect tube shape. The kids seem excited to follow their dad in the water.
“Barrell started surfing when he was 11 months old. McNamara indicated that he had the first wave.” He started walking at nine. [months], Until surfing at 11 months old. Nicole said their daughter started surfing at the same age, and commented, “It’s so strong.”
McNamara said his physical coach has worked for decades with Super Bowl champion coach Tom Brady, and like the midfielder, the surfer says he has no plans to retire. In fact, you are unlikely to see it hanging on the edge of a chair.
He simply said, “I hope I can continue surfing for as long as I am alive.”
100 feet wave Produced by Topic Studios, Library Films, and Amplify Pictures, and CEO produced by Smith, Lewis, Maria Zuckerman, Ryan Heller, and Michael Bloom.